In mid March 2025, our DPRK Tour Manager Greg returned to Pyongyang.

While the city remains officially closed to general tourism with no set reopening date, Koryo Tours received special permission to organise and invite 200 amateur foreign runners for the upcoming Pyongyang Marathon, set for 6 April 2025.

This marked a big moment for us—our first return to the North Korean capital in over five years.

Greg’s visit wasn’t just symbolic. He was there on behalf of Koryo Tours to meet with the DPR Korea Athletic Association and coordinate final preparations for the marathon.

Though tourism to Pyongyang hasn’t resumed, this trip opens the door, ever so slightly, to future possibilities.

Here’s what it was like for Greg to be back in Pyongyang—after all these years away.

Koryo Tours' DPRK Manager Greg in front of Hwasong Beer Bar, Feb 2025

Just over 5 years after my last visit and almost a year later than initially anticipated, I finally made it back to Pyongyang for 3 nights as the guest of the DPR Korea Athletic Association to discuss the successful organization of the 31 st Pyongyang International Marathon.

The most bizarre thing about visiting Korea these days is that even though it is almost impossible to secure a visa (or entry permit to Rason – well, now it seems to be impossible for a while) I felt very welcomed. The consul at the Embassy in Beijing, the immigration and customs officers, the service personnel at the hotel and the restaurants were all very welcoming and proved to be great hosts.

The local guide and the elevator operator at the Arch of Triumph as well as a few people at one of the souvenir shops remembered me and greeting me like an old acquittance.

The first change an old frequent visitor notice is the skyline of Pyongyang. As you approach the DPRK capital from the airport for a second one might think that they are approaching Manhattan as the skyscrapers of Jonwi Street appear on the horizon. Next, you will see many Chinese-built commuter buses one after another shuttling residents of the new districts from downtown Pyongyang.

Then come the familiar districts and landmarks; however, now the area of the Arch of Triumph is undergoing an urban redevelopment.

Sosan Hotel – where I stayed – was not too surprisingly quite empty, only some Chinese delegations stayed there at the same time I did and a couple who seemed to be long-time residents walking their dog in the parking lot every morning and afternoon.

Two other changes that were recognizable is the option for QR payments – not for foreigners, though – and a kind of an ATM machine that facilities cashless payments, and now there seems to be messaging app for local citizens.

Except for the first dinner and breakfast, we were eating out with my hosts; Okryugwan for Pyongyang Cold Noodles, Kwangbok Street for Italian food, Teadonggang Boat Restaurant for some seafood, and a real treat: Hwasong Beer Bar on one of the new streets.

Although it was a short visit and because of all the issues that we needed to discuss and solve so that the first marathon after the Corona-pandemic can be a success was quite stressful, it was nice to be back.

And although I knew that I will be back in a few weeks for the marathon the thought that after that visit I might not be back for an undefinable length of time and that I still won’t be able to see my colleagues I saw monthly before the pandemic kind of cast its shadow on my overall mood.

Inside the Kim Il Sung Stadium, Feb 2025

A few more reads to help you get ready for the Pyongyang International Marathon

The Pyongyang Marathon 2025 is almost here—and we can’t wait to welcome our runners to North Korea’s capital city.

For general information, links, and media about the event, please visit Koryo Tours' Pyongyang Marathon Information Portal.

If you’re one of the participants, we’ve put together a few helpful blog posts to get you ready for race day.

• Here is Koryo Tours official Pyongyang Marathon Travel Guide
• From tips on what to pack to what you’ll see along the course, here’s everything you need to know for the 2025 Pyongyang International Marathon.
• Specifically, Pyongyang Marathon 2025 FAQs: Running in North Korea
• Content creators, or anyone who are planning on taking photos and videos during Pyongyang Marathon (or in North Korea in general), here are 9 Useful Tips for Content Creators Travelling to North Korea
• Curious on what to see during your run in Pyongyang Marathon 2025? Here are 8 Landmarks You’ll Pass Running the Pyongyang Marathon 2025
• Thinking of tracking your run in North Korea with GPS? Here’s what we learned from first-hand experience using Strava inside the DPRK (and got her Strava account banned).

See you in Pyongyang!

Koryo Tours
Experts in North Korea Travel Since 1993