Return to Turkmenistan, What's Travel to Turkmenistan Like Today?

By Simon Cockerell

Simon recounts his trip back to Turkmenistan this year and the notable differences he found

Koryo Tours’ adventure across Turkmenistan in October 2024 was a welcome return to me to this amazing country that I started visiting in 2004.

To see Ashgabat continue growing and the development of more shopping facilities, leisure areas, and especially coffee shops was fascinating and certainly a highlight.

World Leaders in Turkmenistan

We also managed to tour a few of the capital's hotels. Not originally planned, but certainly a notable part of the tour too. It just so happened that there was a summit going on at the same time as our tour.

To accommodate the arrival of various regional and world leaders - including presidents of Russia, Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, etc, who all popped up in Ashgabat while we were there) - we had to move hotels a number of times from the original plan.

All part of the fun of travelling in Turkmenistan!

Ashgabat and Beyond

Beyond the capital city, with its marble-clad idiosyncrasies and architectural monumentalism, we of course drove out to camp overnight at the remarkable Darvaza Gas Crater.

We visited various villages along the way to see local life, meet one of the last eagle hunters in the Karakum Desert, and learn a bit about the nomadic traditions of the Turkmen tribes.

We also visited the Know Ata underground lake and a local Ahal-Teke Horse Stud Farm.

We were also fortunate enough to be the first visitors allowed into the massive Gypjak Mosque as it slowly reopens after a few years of renovations.

Here, we could even take photos inside the family mausoleum of the Turkmenbashi (first President of Turkmenistan) and the mosque itself. something not previously permitted.

Balkanabad City

We took a long and scenic drive to Balkanabad City.

This was formerly an oil workers’ settlement and now a provincial capital - a sleepy smaller city quite distinct from Ashgabat.

We visited the stunningly beautiful and scenic Yangykala Canyon.

After this epic journey we headed to Turkmenbashi City, on the Caspian Sea.

This is where things went a little awry...

Accident Along the Way

This drive is where my accident took place.

Unfortunately, it was this drive where an unfortunate freak car accident took place, ending in quite significant injuries to myself and concussing another member of the group.

I then spent the next ten days hospitalised in the lovely marble-clad Turkmenbashi Municipal General Hospital (we won’t be adding it to the normal tour itinerary!), while the group finished off the tour in the city and completed a return to Ashgabat and on to further adventures or home.

I have now returned safely back to the UK and remain on the mend!

Final Thoughts on the Turkmenistan Trip

The trip was an amazing one, with plenty of new and familiar things to see and experience.

To watch Turkmenistan continue to change over the last decades and dozens of visits has been a fascinating privilege and I look forward to visiting again when fully recovered and with another group of curious and passionate adventurers.

I hope some readers can come along with me!

Koryo Tours
Turkmenistan Tours

Simon Cockerell

Simon has been Koryo’s General Manager since 2002. He has travelled to North Korea more than 175 times and has probably been to the country more than any other Westerner. He is a respected speaker on the country and appears regularly in international media. He is also a tour specialist in Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, and the Russian Far East where he has personally designed and led multiple tours over the years.