How to prepare yourself for a trip to Afghanistan? (As much as possible!)
Afghanistan is a country of immense potential, deep cultural roots, and warm hospitality that may just surprise even some of the most seasoned travellers.
It's a destination that may shatter a lot of misconceptions within hours of arrival. However, travelling here requires preparation, patience, and an understanding of its unique challenges and rewards.
Here’s a quick guide to what you can expect when travelling to Afghanistan.
Friendly Locals?
Is it Safe?
The Chaos of Travel
Navigating Airports and Domestic Flights
Cultural Sensitivity
Food in Afghanistan
Getting Around
Checkpoints in Afghanistan
Communication & Language
Practicalities: Visas, Money, and SIM Cards
Preparing for a Trip - Checklist!
Afghans are renowned for their hospitality.
And whilst this, similar to any stereotype of any country, may differ from person to person - most will be happy to see you and grateful you chose to travel to their country.
Especially after such a tumultuous recent history.
From the moment you arrive, you’ll experience the warmth and kindness of locals eager to make a good impression.
While tourism is still developing, the enthusiasm to host foreign visitors is palpable. You’ll generally find this from both local people and also government officials.
Nevertheless, always remember that locals don’t owe you anything. If you don’t get a smile back, just remember that some people come with more conservative views and others simply don’t want to be bothered.
There have also been reports of street children bothering foreigners; not just begging, but by throwing rocks and otherwise being mischievous in a not-so-friendly manner.
Safety in Afghanistan is complex and requires a cautious approach.
While the government is keen to protect tourists and ensure they have a positive experience, the enforcement of rules can vary greatly. It’s crucial to stay informed, remain flexible, and avoid becoming complacent.
Working with a trusted local guide is really helpful in navigating checkpoints, security requirements, and shifting regulations.
See our full post on how to travel in Afghanistan safely.
Travelling in Afghanistan, especially in big cities like Kabul, can be compared to visiting a big city in India in terms of its chaotic energy - but lacks the tourism infrastructure you might be accustomed to.
Traffic controllers with batons bat around cars to move them on, and yet the traffic often comes to a standstill.
Expect delays, long waits at checkpoints, and an overall slower pace of life. Patience is your best companion, as is an openness to the spontaneity that characterises every interaction.
It’s best to have a rough plan of your itinerary for travel in Afghanistan but not to try to squeeze things in. Having a flexible plan will allow you time for any delays!
Afghanistan's airports, including Kabul, are bustling and heavily secured.
Arrive early for domestic flights, as multiple security checks can take time.
Although rules like seating arrangements for men and women on flights exist (women not allowed to be seated next to men unless related), enforcement is inconsistent.
You might find yourself chatting away to a lovely Afghan man!
Airlines such as Afghania and Kam Air provide a fairly nice travel experience, with meals even on short flights.
Afghanistan’s culture is diverse and deeply rooted in tradition.
Women travellers, in particular, should expect nuanced interactions.
Women are seen working in some sectors, especially in cities like Kabul, but their visibility varies significantly by province. Modesty in dress is expected, though enforcement of these rules also varies.
Engaging respectfully and remaining open to conversations will enrich your experience.
As a woman, some men won’t want to even make contact with you. Others will be happy to engage in a full conversation. To make people feel comfortable it is best to let them initiate any contact.
This is even more so for women. Male travellers will generally find it harder to interact with local females due to it being such a conservative society.
Afghan cuisine is hearty and meat-heavy, often accompanied by bread, rice, and dairy.
Vegetarian options are limited, and meals sometimes inadvertently include meat.
Fresh fruit is abundant, but be cautious with street-bought juices and ensure fruits are washed properly before consumption.
Transportation within Afghanistan can be challenging. You basically have to do as the locals do.
A more expensive option is a private car - quicker and more comfortable. A bit cheaper and you could choose a minibus.
Depending on where you go depends on where the buses leave from. Make sure to check you get the right bus stop beforehand as you shouldn’t expect locals to speak English or to know where all buses are heading to or from!
Cheaper still are night buses which are less comfortable.
While navigating through cities, particularly Kabul, expect heavy traffic and allow extra time to reach your destinations.
Checkpoints are a frequent feature of travel, adding hours to journeys.
While they can seem tedious, it’s all just protocol. Cooperation, patience, and humour go a long way, especially when dealing with the numerous guards you’ll encounter.
English is surprisingly common in urban areas and among service providers, but Pashto and Dari are the main languages.
A little effort to learn basic phrases or show interest in local languages can go a long way.
In more conservative areas, especially in Kandahar, Pashto is particularly beneficial. It’s widely spoken and appreciated by authorities.
- Visa: Generally, the easiest way to obtain an Afghan visa is through the consulate in Dubai, with same-day processing available.
- Money: Currency exchange is simple, but it’s best to convert what you need in one go to minimise hassle.
- SIM Cards: Purchase a SIM upon arrival at Kabul airport. While it may be slightly pricier, it ensures you’re connected from the outset.
Ensure you have a list of important numbers, including the local emergency services (police, ambulance), your country’s embassy or consulate (or one that covers your country), and a trusted local guide or contact.
Make sure you have a good travel insurance provider and double-check with them (and have it in writing!) that they cover Afghanistan.
Long trousers and loose, modest shirts is not only culturally respectful but also practical for protection against the sun and dust. Avoid brightly coloured or overly fashionable attire that might attract unnecessary attention.
For women, make sure you are wearing a hijab (headscarf) and long dress covering legs and arms for when you land.
Depending on the activity, you may want to bring sturdy boots or hiking shoes. Afghanistan’s rugged terrain and dusty streets make these essential. Sandals can be fine in cities like Kabul, but not ideal for excursions.
Vaccinations and Medical Prep - Consult a travel clinic at least six weeks before departure. Specific vaccinations to consider:
Even bottled water should be double-checked to ensure the seal is intact. Personal water filtration systems like LifeStraw or SteriPen are recommended for safe hydration in remote areas.
Many areas are at high elevations. Watch out if you feel symptoms such as headaches, nausea, and fatigue and if you have had bad experiences with altitude before, consult your doctor. .
Be prepared for the unpredictable nature of road travel in Afghanistan. Landslides and road closures can occur in mountainous regions like Bamiyan or the Panjshir Valley.
Drivers familiar with the local terrain and security checkpoints are vital. Reliable agencies should have vetted drivers who know the safest routes and local customs.
While landscapes and architecture are generally fine, photographing people without permission, especially women, could cause offence or conflict.
Make sure you are behaving correctly when visiting religious sites. Remove shoes, dress modestly, and refrain from loud conversations.
Bring large denominations of USD to exchange. Credit cards are almost never accepted outside major hotels in Kabul and you may not have your card accepted at ATMs. Budget well and bring extra cash in case you need it.
Tea!
Be prepared to really go ‘tea total’ and not drink anything but tea.
This of course means alcohol but, generally speaking, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a good coffee, too.
You might want to bring your own!
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