Every country we cover eventually raises the same question: has anyone actually written anything good about this place? With Moldova, the list is relatively short but pleasantly surprising.
Read full storyA Turkic community, in a stretch of vineyards in southern Moldova, hundreds of kilometres from the nearest Turkish-speaking government, where the churches are Orthodox, the wine is excellent, and the road signs are trilingual.
Read full storyTwo statues, two heroes of Moldova, and two versions of history that have spent three decades simply declining to acknowledge each other.
Read full storyI first visited Moldova and Transnistria in January 2006, as part of a wider trip that took me through Ukraine and across the Caspian on a freight ship. My most recent visit was rather different, with a wife and two small children in tow and considerably better weather. Here is what twenty years of change actually looks like on the ground.
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