We discuss the ethics of visiting Afghanistan.
Afghanistan is a country that has seen conflict for the past few decades.
In recent years, however, restrictions have loosened. And travellers have started to visit Afghanistan once again.
Given Afghanistan's complex socio-political situation, travelling there raises significant ethical questions.
Is it ethical to visit Afghanistan? Is it responsible to visit a country where ongoing conflict, humanitarian crises, and instability persist?
This post aims to explore the ethical implications of travelling to Afghanistan as much as possible, and hopefully provide you with a framework for responsible decision-making when it comes to travelling to Afghanistan. (And indeed beyond).
Travel Afghanistan With Local Female Tour Guides
Visiting Afghanistan, My Initial Thoughts
Having worked in tourism over a number of years and been an avid adventure traveller since my teens, the ethics of travelling to more ‘out there’ or ‘controversial’ places is always at the forefront of my mind.
If I think too much, I end up getting into a dark spiral of the ethics of travel in general and how bizarre it is that we find joy in watching other people live their normal lives. And then we have to add in the whole environmental impact, too.
Having worked these years in the North Korea travel industry, believe me when I say that ethics and travel is often at the forefront of my mind. You can find my blog on the ethics of travelling to North Korea here, for example.
In the end, though, I always come back to one point that comforts me somewhat. Intent.
I think you can ethically travel to most places as long as your intent is in the right place, too.
But you also have to consider ethical practices as you go.
Now, I’m sure that when I say that you’re probably going to think up loads of places to prove me wrong. That’s fine.
But I think that point can be valid when we’re talking about the ethics of visiting Afghanistan.
The emphasis here is on *can*. Not all travel to North Korea is “ethical”. Not all travel to Afghanistan is “ethical”, either. It is up to you as a conscious traveller to ensure that your travel to Afghanistan, or any other country for that matter, is as ethical as possible.
For me, when discussing more controversial locations such as the ethics of visiting Afghanistan, it’s not just about your travel experience; rather, it’s about the positive impact tourism can create, too.
It is these topics that I’m going to try to explore in this post.
Understanding the Context of Afghanistan
Afghanistan has been at the centre of conflict for decades. Since the 1970s, the country has experienced multiple invasions, civil wars, and political upheaval. After the U.S. withdrawal in 2021 and the Taliban's return to power, Afghanistan has faced significant humanitarian challenges.
Poverty rates are high, access to basic services is limited, and many people live under harsh conditions with little opportunity for change.
This background is critical for travellers to understand, as the country remains politically unstable and dangerous in some areas.
Despite this, Afghanistan has a resilient population and a deep-rooted culture that is fascinating and beautiful to experience.
The context of travel is shaped by these realities.
It’s essential to acknowledge the everyday struggles that Afghan citizens face when considering whether tourism is appropriate.
The Risks of Tourism in Conflict Zones
Travelling to Afghanistan involves risks not only for the traveller but also for local communities.
Indeed, it would be amiss not to mention the awful tragedy in Bamiyan in early 2024 as several people, including both foreign tourists and locals, were murdered in the market - for reasons unknown.
It may be the case that travellers could become targets for violence or kidnapping, and their presence could inadvertently increase the danger for residents.
Tourists may also unintentionally draw attention to areas that were previously safe or lead to increased surveillance and scrutiny from authorities.
For these reasons, travel to conflict zones requires careful risk assessment.
Ethical travel to Afghanistan should consider whether their presence might put others at risk.
In terms of responsibility, travellers should also be prepared to take responsibility for safety. This includes understanding the implications of emergency situations and potential evacuations. If you are travelling with a travel company, it is their responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of the group to the best of their ability. And that they have done their explicit research beforehand.
Supporting or Exploiting? The Debate on Tourism’s Impact
Tourism can bring financial benefits to local economies. This is certainly a plus point for tourism. And it’s definitely true of Afghanistan, too.
But in a conflict zone, the ethical calculus is more complicated.
While some may argue that tourism provides much-needed revenue and supports local businesses, others contend that this money often goes to a small number of people, with little benefit to the wider community. This is often the issue when travellers frequent only certain spots.
Unfortunately in Afghanistan, this is an issue we have to tackle over time. Tourists travel to the same spots over and over again because, well, they’re the spots that are at least known to be very safe.
Afghanistan is a massive country and you could spend several months of your life travelling around it. Unfortunately, the infrastructure for both travel and ensuring safety is just not there at the moment. And it will take time.
It’s important to note too, that Afghanistan’s tourism is still in its early stages.
There is no real need to worry about all the tourists located in one area and therefore only benefiting one area of the country. It is not unusual to travel Afghanistan for many weeks and only see one or two other foreigner travellers. If at all.
One way to address the concerns is to prioritise working with responsible tour operators who are committed to ethical practices. These operators can help ensure that travel benefits local communities and that visitors engage respectfully with Afghan culture.
At Koryo Tours, we have created our Travel Afghanistan with Afghanistan Women tour with ethical practices in mind. In fact, ethics and safety are the two main considerations when creating this trip - and we spent a lot of time and hard work in order to prioritise these two factors.
I’ll speak about it more in the next section, but feel free to have explore of the itineraries here.
Supporting Local Afghanistan Women
A big consideration when travelling to Afghanistan is the lives of the Afghanistan women. Indeed, that’s often at the forefront of a lot of media attention.
Since the Taliban takeover in 2021, women’s rights have been seriously removed.
According to Taliban law, women of a certain age are not permitted to attend schools, work, or hold large public gatherings and talk loudly. They should wear a head covering at all times and are often expected to wear a niqab (face covering) or burqa (full covering including over the eyes). And this is when they go outside. Often, they will just simply stay at home.
Nevertheless, the lives of Afghan women is more than just news headlines. For me, it is about research and ultimately, visiting the country and experiencing this for myself. Seeing if it is suitable as a destination to take other like-minded people to visit.
Afghanistan Women’s Tour
Our tours to Afghanistan at Koryo Tours focus on learning about the lives of Afghan women and work directly with local Afghan female tour guides.
The tour is led by a local Afghanistan female tour guide and works with multiple women throughout the country in the various regions.
The itinerary has been specifically designed with a focus on learning about the lives of Afghanistan women. Not only do we work with local women, but we engage with the local population, creating itineraries around women-focused activities and trying to give back to the community.
Women Working in Afghanistan
Now, you may be wondering - are we putting these women at risk?
Women working in Afghanistan is yet another nuanced issue. There are various sectors that you will still see women working in, including the hospitality industry. Dentistry is yet another profession you will find many women.
Indeed, I got talking to a female dentist who recalled pulling the teeth out of a local Taliban. It happens.
Ultimately, the female tour guides we work with have established their own presence in the country as a tour guide, and are respected and accepted as such.
We are in constant contact with the local female guides to ensure we have up-to-date information on any situation and any changes. We prioritise their safety and ultimately, the decisions we take on tour are up to them.
We are happy to be able to support local women in expanding on their prospects professionally, giving them a platform to work and grow in their profession by supporting them with tourism.
As a tour company, we do not pretend that we understand the situation more than the local people can. And as a foreigner, I personally certainly cannot understand the local situation for women as much as the local women can. Therefore, by putting the choices and decisions in the hands of the local women and giving them the autonomy to make decisions, whilst also putting our own measures in place to safeguard their well-being, we try to support the women as best we can.
Afghan Sisters Women Only Tour To Afghanistan
Are You Supporting the Local Government?
Another ethical issue that can be raised is if you are supporting the local government - i.e., the Taliban.
Firstly, when you travel to any country - are you overtly supporting the government?
No. Travel to Afghanistan does not mean that you actively support the government.
Do the Afghanistan Tour guides work for the government?
Not the ones we work with. The local tour company and guides we work with have no direct links to the Taliban. They are licensed and registered by the relevant government department, which is a requirement for any legal practising tour company. However, in their business, they are entirely autonomous and separate from the government.
They are far from “mouthpieces of the government” and are free generally to speak their minds within legal limits.
Could some of the money from your trip end up in the hands of the government?
Absolutely.
You pay for your visas and permits in Afghanistan. This is money to the government.
Sure. We can say that financially, your tourism contributes somewhat to the support of the government.
But does this mean you are propping up the government and helping it survive?
Probably not, no. Without tourism to Afghanistan, the Taliban would most certainly still be in power.
Besides monetary concerns, what other kind of ‘support’ to the government are you giving?
Tourism is certainly a form of soft power. In any country. The Taliban are certainly eager for tourists to come to the country exactly for this reason.
I am a strong believer in responsible tourism having a positive impact. And truly believe that the benefits can outweigh any issues. So when we discuss ‘supporting the government’, sure, there is an aspect here that we simply cannot deny.
But it is certainly not the goal of us visiting Afghanistan.
As long as it is not your goal, and you do as much as possible to offset this unintended consequence, then your visit to Afghanistan can benefit locals.
Responsible Tourism Practices for Afghanistan
If travelling to Afghanistan, it is crucial to adhere to responsible tourism principles.
If you’re travelling solo and not part of a group, but want to approach a local tour company, it’s important to select tour companies that are transparent about where their money goes and how they support local communities.
Ethical operators often employ local guides, respect local wages, and work with small businesses to maximise community benefit.
Sustainable Travel
Travellers should also prioritise sustainability where possible.
Afghanistan's environment has been heavily impacted by conflict, and responsible tourists can minimise their footprint by avoiding activities that further harm the landscape.
Practical measures might include limiting the use of plastic, reducing energy consumption, and respecting natural habitats. Be mindful with your use of AC and water in the hotel, for example.
Navigating Cultural Sensitivity and Respect
Respect. Don’t lecture.
If you are trying to visit Afghanistan with the mindset of challenging the rules to ‘show there is another way’, a ‘better’, way, then you may want to think again.
Not only is this generally not a great attitude to have going into a new country, but especially Afghanistan - it’s not a country where you don’t want to play by the rules.
As a tourist, you are a guest in their country.
You should respect the rules, even if they are not rules you usually follow, and even if they are rules you don’t agree with.
If you can’t follow the rules of the country; don’t go. This is as true for North Korea as it is for Afghanistan.
If you break the rules, you could be jeopardising your safety, the safety of fellow travellers, the safety of any locals you’re with, and indeed the tourism industry as a whole.
Respecting Afghanistan Culture - Clothing
Afghanistan has deeply rooted cultural norms, especially around gender roles, clothing, and religious practices.
You should make a concerted effort to understand and respect these norms.
For instance, both men AND women are generally expected to dress modestly.
Men are expected to wear long, loose clothing covering their arms and legs.
Women are expected to cover their hair and wear long, loose clothing.
Respecting Afghanistan Culture - Local Customs
Respect for local customs extends to behaviour as well.
Public displays of affection, for example, are generally inappropriate, and it is important to be mindful of gender dynamics in social interactions.
Simple gestures, like learning a few words of Dari or Pashto and following local greetings, can go a long way in showing respect.
Respecting Afghanistan Culture - More is, More
Respecting a local culture is more than just following the basic rules as minimally as possible.
If as a woman you are expected to wear at least a headscarf, in more conservative areas, you could assess the area and what local women around you are doing and go one step further. For example, instead of wearing some colourful attire, you could opt for a dark or black dress, instead. In some areas, you may even feel more comfortable in a face covering.
This kind of attitude shows a higher level of respect towards the country and the culture and it is appreciated. By both locals and local authorities.
When sitting in a local cafe in Kabul, I was complimented by a local woman for wearing my headscarf nicely (with my hair and neck correctly covered).
Whether you, your country, and your culture see the headscarf as an act of modesty or an act of oppression, it is wise to consider that in Afghanistan, it is likely considered the former, rather than the latter. By the authorities, of course, but also by the local population. This includes the women, and indeed, women especially so.
As a woman travelling in Afghanistan, if you want to be respected also by local women, then these small things can really go a long way.
On another note, people talk a lot about the plight of women in Afghanistan without really knowing or understanding the issue. If you want to have an even slight experience of what life is like for Afghani women, wearing a full head and face covering, or even a burqa for the day, will give you a little sliver of insight which will be truly enlightening. (And not necessarily in a positive way).
The Role of Media and Perceptions of Afghanistan
The media often portrays Afghanistan as a place defined by conflict and extremism. While these elements are indeed part of the country’s reality, they do not capture the full picture of Afghan life.
The way Afghanistan is represented can influence tourists’ expectations and behaviour, sometimes leading to misguided perceptions.
Ethical travel should seek to go beyond these stereotypes by learning about Afghan culture and history from diverse sources, including local voices.
After your visit, you can play a role in sharing a more nuanced perspective by telling stories that highlight the resilience, hospitality, and richness of Afghan culture.
However, they must do so responsibly, avoiding narratives that reinforce stereotypes or oversimplify complex realities.
This is a difficult balance, indeed. One that I don’t get right all the time, either.
Balancing Ethical Concerns with the Desire to Visit
Ultimately, deciding whether to travel to Afghanistan involves weighing personal motivations against potential ethical concerns.
This takes us back to my notion of ‘intent’ at the start.
Why do you want to visit?
Is it out of genuine curiosity and a desire to understand Afghan culture, or is it for the thrill of experiencing a “forbidden” place?
Reflecting on these questions can help determine whether travel to Afghanistan aligns with your values.
Consider how your travel plans might impact others.
Does your visit contribute positively to the local economy, and are you prepared to follow responsible practices to minimise harm?
Additionally, are you comfortable with the inherent risks involved?
These questions require careful thought and a willingness to accept the responsibilities that come with traveling to such a complex and challenging destination.
Final Thoughts on the Ethics of Travel to Afghanistan
Travel to Afghanistan is not a decision to be taken lightly.
It involves substantial risks, both for the traveller and the communities they visit, and raises important ethical questions.
By thoroughly researching the socio-political context, working with responsible tour operators, and practising cultural sensitivity, you can make informed decisions that honour Afghan culture and minimise potential harm.
Ultimately, ethical travel requires a commitment to understanding and respecting the people and places we visit, ensuring that our journeys are guided by empathy and responsibility rather than simple curiosity or personal gain.
Koryo Tours
Afghanistan Tours
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