What spending two days in Kandahar is like.
Kandahar is often described as Afghanistan’s most conservative city, and home of the Taliban.
Before visiting Afghanistan, I had in my mind that I would see few women on the streets, and those women that I did see would surely be covered head to toe in full black abaya and face covering, or burqa.
After being in Afghanistan for more than 5 minutes, you know that this is far from the reality there.
There may be slightly more men on the streets of Kabul but the women wear a mix of all kinds of colours, and it is almost unusual to see women walking around in full burqas.
Although, of course, you do see it.
After a few days in Kabul, however, I thought to myself that it must be down to it being the capital.
Of course, it should be more liberal here.
But the next few days were taking me to Kandahar.
Kandahar, surely, would be much more like the Afghanistan I had expected.
Kabul to Kandahar
Kandahar Background
Kandahar Tourism - Chehel Zina / 40 Steps
Kandahar Tourism - Tomb of Ahmad Shah and the Sacred Cloak
Kandahar Tourism - Baba Wali Hotak (Baba Sahib)
Kandahar Tourism - Sarposh Bazaar
Kandahar Tourism - Gate of Aino Mina Township
Staying in Kandahar
Kabul To Kandahar
Domestic Flight from Kabul
We got up early in the morning to make our way through the busy streets of Kabul to the airport.
Flying in Afghanistan, whether domestically or internationally, would soon become one of my least favourite things about travel in Afghanistan.
The amount of security procedures both you and the car have to go through to even get into the airport area will definitely reassure you about the safety there.
At least three different layers of security before you can even get into the airport… and I’m sure you can imagine the types of queues this produces, too.
From my first flight in Afghanistan, I learnt that arriving at the airport with ample time is a must.
Our flight to Kandahar was leaving early that morning.
I had put on my black abaya and black hijab this morning - a little worried that with the small jewels on it and flash of brown-coloured material, it would be too much for Kandahar.
My guide reassured me that it would be fine. Plus, she was dressed more colourfully than I - which made me feel a little better.
Travelling as Women in Afghanistan
I was also a little worried that we wouldn’t be able to board the flight - or that we would at least have some trouble.
There is a rule against women in Afghanistan travelling without men. We were two women. Granted, one of them - me - was a foreigner.
So maybe this had something to do with the fact that we just breezed through check-in and airport security.
But I looked around and saw many women seemingly travelling alone.
I was even surprised to see a woman working at the check-in desk. It was the first woman I’d seen working in a role that wasn’t a “women-specific” role.
You see multiple women working at the various female checkpoints and security areas, but this woman was just working at the airport check-in desks, actually seemingly bossing her male colleagues around.
Whilst it’s unnerving that I got excited to see a woman working, it is important to not forget about these women, too.
I can’t pretend to understand what life is like as a woman trying to find work in Afghanistan - but I can say that the black-and-white narrative the media tries to portray is not true, either.
Women who are working in Afghanistan surely deserve some recognition or a place in the headlines, also?
After getting checked in, we took a seat at our boarding gate and I spent my time watching the families, men, women, and children battle their way through the hustle and bustle.
Note: If you buy a domestic flight in Afghanistan, make sure you have access to the card you booked it on! They will check, and you will need to show them the card.
Flying Kabul to Kandahar
As it was our time to board, we all bustled onto the bus that would take us to our plane.
This is another noteworthy thing about airports and flying in Afghanistan.
No matter how close the plane is to the airport gate, for some reason, you always have to board a bus. This because most ridiculous when the bus took us from the gate to the plane by basically getting everyone to board the bus, moving a couple of metres, and then simply opening the doors to the other side where the plane stood waiting for us…
I’m sure there is a reasonable Afghan-specific security explanation for this.
As I found my seat, it was clear the plane was full. Which was no problem, except I was worried about the serious faux pas about the be committed as there seemed to be a man sat next to me on the plane.
The airhost apologised profusely and reassured me that once everyone was seated, they would change his seat.
At first, I was confused and then recalled reading that it is not permitted for men to sit next to women on flights.
I mean, of course, this makes sense given the context of where I was - but I wondered that if it’s that serious of a rule, people might want to pay more attention to it during the seat allocation process.
For me sitting next to a man was no issue - of course!
I was just worried he would feel uncomfortable. Or perhaps the workers and everyone else on the plane would feel uncomfortable… But we started up a conversation with me shortly after sitting down and I got to know he was working for the Red Cross in Kandahar. A lovely man who shared his aeroplane sandwich with me as we were chatting away.
They never did come back to switch around his seats.
Kandahar
Kandahar, Afghanistan’s second-largest city with a population of over half a million, sits in the country’s south and is known as the birthplace of modern Afghanistan.
Kandahar History & Info
Founded by Alexander the Great in the 4th Century BCE, the city has since been a strategic hub and cultural centre for the region.
Throughout history, it has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, from the Mughals to the Durrani Empire, which made Kandahar its first capital in 1747.
Today, Kandahar is known as Afghanistan’s most conservative city, with strong adherence to traditional Pashtun customs and Islamic values.
The city's social norms reflect these practices, particularly regarding dress codes, gender roles, and religious observance. Kandahar’s conservatism also impacts its political landscape and everyday life, where Pashtunwali, the traditional Pashtun code, guides many aspects of personal and community behaviour - meaning that it’s very strict.
This conservative culture shapes Kandahar’s identity and remains a significant influence on the city’s social structure. It’s important to speak Pashtu here if you want to be able to get around and be respected.
Kandahar is a bustling city where ancient mosques and fortresses stand alongside lively bazaars and modern amenities. This makes it the perfect place to explore in terms of history and culture, as well as understand the wider context of Afghanistan, its Pashtun roots, and how lives can differ for Afghan women today throughout the country.
And most of the main things can be seen in just one day.
Arriving in Kandahar
During the flight, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t at least a little nervous. Despite my positive experience of Afghanistan so far, the thought of going into an Afghanistan similar to what I'd heard it’s like on the news wasn’t all too welcoming to me.
Would we be able to travel on our own as two women? Would be be turned away from sites? What kind of reception would we get from the locals? Would there be any other women around? Was what I was wearing OK?
We hear a lot about Afghanistan in the media and how strict it is. In Kabul, I was pleasantly surprised. But in the famously conservative area of Kandahar? I just didn’t know how it would be. If we would even be permitted to walk on the streets or talk and show our faces in public.
I peered out of the window to see the vast desert area and the city of Kandahar appearing in the distance.
Kandahar Airport
Kandahar Airport is one of two international airports in Afghanistan, with multiple weekly flights to and from the UAE.
It may not be as big and as active as Kabul airport, but as soon as we landed I could tell it’s international standard.
The airport itself is rather big and incredibly beautiful.
Much more beautiful, in fact, than Kabul Airport.
It has beautiful creams and turquoise blues and the architecture makes it feel quite sleek and modern. I was a little nervous to make a big fuss out of taking photos here and acting let’s say, ‘unladylike’ and bringing attention to ourselves - but my guide reassured me. She was almost more excited than me to be there and was snapping away and taking lots of photos and videos.
It was late morning by now and we had just one and a half days in Kandahar. After taking some photos underneath the beautiful walkway, we rushed through the airport and out to the taxi area to meet with our driver.
We had a lot to see today.
Kandahar City
But the first stop was to head into the city and get some lunch, during which me and my guide discussed covering our faces.
She laughed and giggled as she pulled her scarf around and across her face.
‘It’s the first time I’ve been dressed like this!’ She said.
Driving through the streets of Kandahar my first impressions were actually much more relaxed than I had previously anticipated. My worries about my slightly sparkly and slightly coloured abaya quickly faded as I saw multiple women walking around wearing something similar. Even some more colourful.
Certainly, there were less women on the streets. There were also more women wearing a full-blue burqa than I had seen anywhere else in Afghanistan. And more faces were covered than I had seen before.
But the main point? There were actually women on the streets.
For more on Kandahar, see our Kandahar Afghanistan Travel Guide here.
Kandahar Tourism - Chehel Zina / 40 Steps
After we were well-fed and well-covered-up, it was time to see how much of this city we could see in just over a day.
Chehel Zina / 40 Steps
Chehel Zina means "Forty Steps”. It is an ancient site featuring a series of stone steps leading up a hill to a fort. Once you climb it, there are some killer views of the whole of Kandahar.
Certainly recommended to come here. Plus, it is free entry.
But there is one caveat…
Security here is tight. And women are not permitted.
We spent 1 hour here trying to get permission to go in. It ended up being my only negative experience in Kandahar, and indeed the whole of Afghanistan.
We sat outside for a long time. It seems that the guard who should have let us in was having a nap.
That was the first mistake; waking him up.
Next there was more waiting. Maybe around 30 minutes until we finally were asked to go to the office. Inside the office, it was pretty nerve-wracking. I didn’t know what we were stepping into - but I didn’t expect it to be this.
We were ushered into a room by our driver. There were around 4 men inside all sat down on cushions. My guide and I proceeded to sit down, too. I couldn’t understand anything that was going on but there were a lot of raised voices and the tension in the room was palatable.
One of the guys in the corner seemed pretty angry. He shouted something and I turned to my guide, asking her what he said. She looked at me, shushed me, and lowered her head. I followed suit.
At this point, there was nothing we could do. I didn’t understand what was going on and it was ten excruciating minutes of our driver chatting with the angry men who wouldn’t even look us in the eyes or deign to hear from us.
A few more heated words and we were permitted to stand up and exit the room.
I never knew exactly what the problem was or what went down in this room. But I was certainly happy to be leaving. And happy to be permitted to go through to visit the 40 Steps.
My guide later told me that we were told not to speak (which I hadn’t understood, obviously) - although I could certainly feel them looking down on us.
One of them had asked angrily
“Why does a female need to work as a guide?”.
The driver and his quick wit responded for us (we were, of course, not allowed to speak) and said
“Since the new government they don’t allow men to guide women”.
Apparently, they were very happy with this and agreed it would indeed be improper for a man to guide females, and in the end we got in OK.
I heard later from a male tour guide that him and his family tried to visit here but were not permitted as women (his wife) were not allowed. So, grateful that we managed to get in.
The site generally is nice and worth it if you can go.
But probably not worth feeling uncomfortable for 1 hour. It’s just a short visit important for those that like history and good views and nature. Otherwise, you can bypass it.
Tomb of Ahmad Shah and the Sacred Cloak -
Next up was our first tomb in Kandahar.
This is the tomb of the founder of modern Afghanistan - a significant historical and religious site. The sacred cloak housed here is believed to have belonged to the Prophet Muhammad.
Best to visit on a Friday if possible as more will be open than we got to visit.
Compared with the last people we encountered, and indeed just in general, security here was very friendly and happy to speak with my local guide in a very professional manner.
They were polite and respectful and offered us a local guide to take us around.
Baba Wali Hotak (Baba Sahib)
Next, we travelled to the Baba Wali Hotak, another nice area to walk around and you can go inside.
Baba Wali Hotak, commonly referred to as Baba Sahib, is a revered figure in Kandahar, Afghanistan, known for his deep spiritual significance and historical importance in the region.
He is considered one of the prominent saints of Afghanistan and is particularly respected among the Pashtun community.
Baba Wali Hotak is believed to have lived in the 18th century and is associated with the Hotak dynasty, which played a significant role in Afghan history.
The Hotak dynasty emerged in the early 18th century, with its roots tracing back to the Ghilji tribes. The dynasty is known for its brief rule over Afghanistan, especially during the time of Shah Hussain Hotak, who challenged the Safavid dynasty of Persia.
As a Sufi saint, his tomb attracts numerous pilgrims who come to pay their respects, seek blessings, and ask for healing. The site is often filled with offerings, prayers, and rituals performed by visitors. It’s also a beautiful site typical of intricate Afghanistan-style architecture and a great place to visit.
Outside this area is very peaceful, with lots of grass areas to relax on.
Whilst my guide was walking around and taking some photos, I got called over by a group of guys for some tea.
I sat on the grass with them enjoying the tea and chatting in the language of beverages and hands.
Sometimes you don’t have to speak the language to enjoy time together.
We had some tea and lots of laughs, as well as lots of photos together. I’ll always remember it as a very unique and open experience between a group of men and woman, including my female tour guide, in what should be one of the most conservative areas of an already conservative country.
Sarposh Bazaar
In the late afternoon, we took a stop to Sarposh Bazaar. This is a bustling market in Kandahar, offering a variety of goods from traditional crafts to everyday items.
We wanted to have a proper look around the market so headed to the women’s section. This is the place I felt the most exposed during my whole time in Afghanistan. All of the women had face coverings if not burqas. However, there was one female seller - although it seems she had set up shop somewhat not legally right in the middle of the market and was selling soaps.
I was completely covered at this point and, funnily enough, people would shout ‘ni hao!’ to me to say hello.
The only time in my life I’ve been mistaken for Chinese…
It’s a very chaotic area and one of those places you can’t really stop to think or to enjoy all the clothing and other products because there is too much going on. But it is nice to look around great for getting the vibe of the place.
Gate of Aino Mina Township
We wanted to make one final stop before our day tour in Kandahar ended, so we made the drive to the Aino Mina Gate.
Aino Mina is a modern residential area in Kandahar. Visiting the gate here gave us a nice photo opportunity and a chance to see a new area of the city.
And we finished up here just in time for the sunset and getting back to the centre of town to the hotel we would stay in.
Staying in Kandahar
Our hotel was right in the middle of the city centre.
At first, I was pretty worried about this place. It was right on the main road and above some pretty noisy streets and shops, which I presumed would be open late into the night. But it ended up being one of my favourite places to stay in Afghanistan, and my guides’, too.
From the outside, I was really unsure. But the staff were lovely and just up the stairs from the reception was a long, open, colourful hallway filled with red carpet and plants.
Somehow, this reassured me, and we went inside to take a look at the rooms.
The rooms were magical.
It felt like a home as soon as you walked up those stairs. Everything is colourful and carpeted, with each corner of this maze-like hotel a new section of rooms. Each of the sections of rooms had its own mini kitchen, sofa, and fridge. In order to step onto the section, you needed to take your shoes off. Which for some reason made it all that more homelier.
Within each section, you were then taken to your rooms - which were equally as sweet and decorated with traditional Afghani colours and pillows on the floor for relaxing.
No hot water - but at 40 degrees outside, that certainly wasn’t an issue!
Overall, my time in Kandahar was surprising.
Surprising because it was much more liberal than I imagined; but also surprising because it is indeed the most conservative part of the country.
And I don’t think anything can prepare you for what it is really like there.
Apart from visiting it yourself.
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