Pyongyang Department Store No.1
Pyongyang Department Store No.1
Introduction
Location
Shopping
Myths about Pyongyang Department Store No.1
Visiting
Introduction
The Pyongyang Department Store No. 1 was the place to shop in Pyongyang.
But economic changes in 2002 meant that competition came in from foreign brands and the store took a hit. Pyongyang Department Store No.1 is now rather old fashioned in comparison to stores such as Kwangbok Supermarket or Daesong Department Store.
In 2012, the building was clad in the standard Korean way of ‘modernising’ a building- (see photos below 2007 and after 2012) and sadly it lost its wonderful rhythm as a piece of stand-alone architecture.
The locality also changes as the skyscrapers of Changjon street appeared in 2012.
Thankfully the way they dress the windows still has that 1950’s flavour.
Location
Fronting Sungri Street and just a stone’s throw from Kim Il Sung Square, it was the Macy’s of Pyongyang.
Shopping
In the early 2000’s it was still the place for all locally made products, vinalon fabric, enamel plates, battery powered tank toys, and in serried ranks the result of limited amount of goods in apparently limitless supply.
Myths about Pyongyang Department Store No.1
1. The building survived the Korean War bombing
Reputedly No 1 is built on the site of one of the three buildings which survived the Korean War.
2. People are there just looking and not buying just to make the place look busy for tourists - they pass over money but when the tourist has gone the money is given back.
It is possible, but more likely just that locals tend to browse at the goods on sale and there is such a thing as change being given.
3. The lights and lifts would often go on as you headed from one floor to the other.
Yes, the store is still operational but just meant a slightly darker shopping trip unless a foreigner turned up. It is still the same for the Mansudae Art Studio art shop and for many of the visits such as the Railway Museum there is a guide in who turns on the lights as you enter a room and turns them off as you leave.
Have a look at the interior on this DPRK video, introduced with the immortal words 'Having a large variety of products is meaningless if they are not welcomed by the people" :https://youtu.be/s4XqD3BV8QQ
Visiting
- The store is difficult to visit for foreigners and is not on the tourist trail, however, throughout the years Koryo Tours staff have managed to get the occasional visit.
- Photography is usually not permitted here. The only chance we had to photograph was in 2003 during the making of ‘A State of Mind’.
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