It’s one thing to hear stories about the infamous U.S. Embassy in Tehran, now known as the Den of Espionage, but quite another to actually step inside.

Once hidden from public view, this former symbol of tension between the U.S. and Iran is now open as a museum.

I had the rare opportunity to visit the Former U.S. Embassy complex, and even then, it felt like a glimpse into a time capsule of history and propaganda.

Since the end of U.S. diplomatic activity there in the late 1970s, its tall walls have been covered with striking murals and messages directed at the United States.

It’s impossible to ignore the messages.

Phrases like "Great Satan" and anti-American depictions that include Mickey Mouse and McDonald’s logos.

But despite what these murals seem to convey, they don’t really reflect how everyday Iranians feel about Americans today. In fact, Americans are more than welcome to visit the museum, without any issues or prejudice.

With a proper, assigned local guide, of course.

The (Brief) History Behind the Den of Espionage
Exploring the Museum Today
Should You Visit?

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The (Brief) History Behind the Den of Espionage (aka the Former U.S. Embassy in Tehran)

The story of the Den of Espionage begins on November 4, 1979.

That’s the day militant students, loyal to the Iranian Revolution and its leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, stormed the U.S. Embassy.

Their reason?

They believed the U.S. was planning a CIA-backed plot to undermine the Revolution, especially after granting asylum to the overthrown Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi.

What followed was a crisis that would last 444 days, with 52 Americans held hostage inside the embassy.

This event led to the U.S. severing diplomatic ties with Iran. A break that has never been repaired to this date.

The Hollywood movie Argo, released in 2012 starring Ben Affleck, captures the essence of the eventful crisis.

When I asked my official museum guide about it, he mentioned that most of the storyline of the movie was exaggerated - Hollywood style.

But nonetheless, watching the movie Argo really made me think about this Former U.S. Embassy in Tehran.

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Exploring the Museum Today

After the 1979 incident, the former U.S. Embassy was a closed-off, highly-guarded site, home to Iran’s Revolutionary Guards and a symbol of defiance.

Over the years, the murals evolved, but the messages stayed largely the same. For a long time, tourists were only allowed to glimpse the outside, often being shooed away if they lingered too long.

But now, you can walk right through the gates and into the heart of this complex piece of history.

Outside the Museum

The outside facade of the building is imposing, a typical show-off massive building to properly house a U.S. Embassy you can still see around the world.

A tattered U.S. Flag, one of the few that still existing U.S. Flags in Iran, is still hanging half mast outside the entrance to the Museum.

The two sides of the entrance to the Former US Embassy are now carved with anti-US Propaganda relief. These were added recently to highlight the resentment against the American government.

Inside the Museum

The museum itself is filled with artefacts from that tumultuous time.

Numerous shredded documents that the Embassy staff tried to destroy before they were captured have been pieced back together and turned into books, and used as evidence of the U.S. espionage.

There’s spying equipment, old machines, and soundproof rooms that once served as secret dens for covert activities.

Every corner of this place tells a story—sometimes overt, sometimes hidden beneath layers of political symbolism.

And of course, you can expect a few additions that highlight the anti-US propaganda posters adorning the walls, including Imam Khomeini’s portrait and anti-Imperialism graffiti put on the fateful day in 1979.

A Place Lost in Time

The Ambassador’s Office still bears the original American flag in the corner, with the style of 1970s furniture.

Old computers, wireless communication, phones and machines were once the advanced technology equipment in the days.

In contrast, however, there are signs of bullet holes in the wall panels, including a few broken into safe bears bullet holes and forced openings.

The murals on the walls outside may give you the impression of a country still steeped in anti-US sentiment, but spend a little time talking to the people of Tehran, and you’ll quickly realize that the open-minded, modern generation couldn’t be further from those messages.

As you walk through the museum, you may even notice that most locals simply pass by without a second glance, going about their daily lives.

It’s a reminder that while history leaves its mark, time moves forward.

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Should You Visit The Den of Espionage Museum?

The Den of Espionage isn’t just a museum.

It’s a window into a complex chapter of Iran’s history. One that shaped the country’s relationship with the world, especially the US.

But it’s also a reminder that this history doesn’t define how Iranians see the world today.

Visiting this museum is about more than seeing murals or spying equipment; it’s about understanding a critical piece of history and gaining perspective on how far things have come since then.

If you find yourself in Tehran, I highly recommend setting aside a few hours to explore this unique museum.

It’s open daily from 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM and from 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM, with tickets priced at 300,000 Rial (about $7). It’s an experience that will challenge your understanding of the region’s past and present, and maybe even change the way you see the world.

Pictures may be taken inside the museum with non-professional cameras, such as your phone. However, you are not allowed to make a video.

So, should you visit the Den of Espionage?

Absolutely. It’s more than just a museum.

It's a key to understanding a part of history that still echoes in the world today.

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